Oils

MrBrad · Postby **MrBrad** » Fri Sep 09, 2016 3:57 pm

Hey guys, I'm pretty sure this has been covered to death, and I'm sure I've seen posts about it but for the life of me I can't find them in the searches.

I'm about to do engine, gearbox and diff oils - all Redline
Engine - 30w15
Gearbox - GD04 or 05? I've heard people commenting that Redline is what you want in the gearbox but I'm not sure which one? (I have found Okibi's post on fluid levels though)
Diff - I assume I'm just going to use the Redline diff oil... which generally is gearbox oil anyway isn't it?

Cheers,
Brad

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Fri Sep 09, 2016 4:27 pm

Diff and box levels are as simple as fill them up until it dribbles out he fill hole.
If you're doing it the proper way (through he fill hole, not some of the other spaz ways people do it) it's impossible to overfill.

As for the oil type, manual says GL4 or GL5 from memory, just double check, it's written in he back with fluids and capacities.

Open diffs and torsen 2 use regular gear oil like the gearbox.
T1 needs something with EP additives, like fwd transaxle suitable oil.

Clutch pack diffs need special lsd oil.

And viscous diffs don't matter because they suck anyway.

MrBrad · Postby **MrBrad** » Fri Sep 09, 2016 5:16 pm

OK cool, so I'm pretty sure that the 2004 SE has torsen but will look into that...

smy0003 · Postby **smy0003** » Fri Sep 09, 2016 5:52 pm

Your owners manual will have correct oil specs, would be good to read that as the SE has a different make of Torsen in it.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Fri Sep 09, 2016 6:11 pm

As above, the SE had a weird diff in it.

Kind of like a T2 in principal, but with some changes, and made by a different company.

I seem to recall it having some preload in it? Somewhat like a T2R.

Regardless, check the manual for if it specifies any speciality fluid.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Fri Sep 09, 2016 10:27 pm

If you're using Redline for the gearbox I wrote to Redline in the States a few years ago for their recommendation. They said MT-90 for Miatas and that a lot of other oils were too slippery for the synchros.

RS2000 · Postby **RS2000** » Sat Sep 10, 2016 8:59 am

Luckily I don't think you'll be able to buy 30w15 engine oil :wink:

As others have said, go by your owners manual.

Engine is probably 5w-30 and 10w-30.
G/box is probably 75w-90 GL4 (maybe GL5 allowed)
Diff probably 75w-90 GL5

If you can afford it, use fully synthetic. All the major brands are fine.

Nevyn72 · Postby **Nevyn72** » Sat Sep 10, 2016 11:38 am

hks_kansei wrote:As above, the SE had a weird diff in it.

Kind of like a T2 in principal, but with some changes, and made by a different company.

Common misconception but untrue.
Last of the NBs (where LSD was fitted), all NCs and all NDs got the funky diff.

The SE got a true Torsen 2, actually exactly the same unit as fitted to the Honda S2000, which is why the SE has unique axle shafts. :wink:

Now to answer your question, as an SE owner myself (in case you hadn't guessed).

Engine - 5W-30 or 5W-40, (I use 5W-40) The owner's manual is so vague you could use almost anything and still comply.
Gearbox - Redline MT90 (you could also use Redline MTXL), if you look at alternative brands then 75W-90 synthetic but do NOT use GL5, only GL4. :wink:

Diff - any synthetic 75W-90 gearbox/diff oil is fine.

As for quantities, get 4 quarts of redline to have enough for both the gearbox and diff and you'll have a little left over. (Reline sell in quarts which is a little less than a litre).
Engine oil, I generally use a little less than 4L for a full change including filter, I normally buy in 5L containers.

Where are you sourcing your Redline products?
I use this eBay seller in Sydney.....
http://stores.ebay.com.au/GL-Lubricants

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Sat Sep 10, 2016 5:53 pm

NC I knew had a weird diff.

But I'm certain the regular NB LSD was a T2 (With the small splines)
I know because mine has one, and having seen it disassembled its certainly a T2

The SE I know has the larger splines, and I recall hearing it was the same centre as an S2k, but I also recall reading that it had a few design differences to the regular nb T2
Off the top of my head it was something to do with it having some preload applied via small clutch plates on the side gears. (Ie: like the T2R)

I think Jtekt (or whatever their name is who own then Torsen patents) licence out the design to other manufacturers for the actual making of it, which is probably how there are so many minor design differences.

So essentially, they're probably all torsen design, but with slight differences.
Regular nb had a streets vanilla torsen, the SE got a Paul's vanilla with choc chip.

MrBrad · Postby **MrBrad** » Wed Oct 19, 2016 2:30 pm

haha yeah - finger trouble! 5w-30...

RS2000 wrote:Luckily I don't think you'll be able to buy 30w15 engine oil As others have said, go by your owners manual.

Engine is probably 5w-30 and 10w-30.
G/box is probably 75w-90 GL4 (maybe GL5 allowed)
Diff probably 75w-90 GL5

If you can afford it, use fully synthetic. All the major brands are fine.

Code4 · Postby **Code4** » Wed Oct 19, 2016 9:24 pm

Made a big difference to my NB8A

http://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/

The American · Postby **The American** » Thu Oct 20, 2016 7:06 am

I've got MT90 in my 6 speed, and have just refilled my possibly ailing Torsen with lightweight shockproof (redline). The MT90 states on the bottle that it is not recommended for hypiod gears (ring and pinion)