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OK Its time to get serious again
Getting a wheel allingment on Thurs morning. 10AM Straight talk suspension in Blacktown

i'll be doing CB's agressive allingment. Which i believe is


front

Caster :5deg or max poss
Camber: -1.10deg to -1.50 deg.
Toe: 0.13 or (1mm in)


Rear
camber :-1.5 deg
toe:0.34 deg(3.4mm in)

Ive had CB's spirited driving allinment when i first got the Azenis put on the car. The tyre shop just allinged it that way.
But i found, the outside of my tyre was wearing at a reasonable pace more than the inside.
I would assume then that would have to have something to do with my driving.
So this time I'll go for the slightly more agressive one. to start off with.

I'll be getting a new set of Toyo R888's for street use on a lovely set of NB8B OEM rimms in a few weeks.
I just found out they are available in a 195/50x16 size. which is the closest size i can get. Unfotunately the Azenis 615's are not available in the size i require.


construcktive critisim on my theory of the allingment is encouraged.

Should be OK, pretty stable but not very quick.

Much more neg F/R and toe out at the front for quicker turn in...........but then again I only drive to the track at the track and back.....so it should keep you off the armco at SS Putty rd

it was the road between Richmond & Springwood.
where have you been hiding.

Try zero front toe or maybe 1mm toe out - not sure why people use toe in on these cars - to slow the steering up perhaps? Also, I'd try to get -2 neg camber all round. Semi slicks like camber - not running enough will cause them to wear the insides of the tyres.

I just had an alignment done at Fulcrum after putting poly bushes in.

Front
Castor l/r 5.96/5.91deg
Camber l/r -1.63/-1.65deg
Toe l/r 0/0mm

Rear
Camber l/r -1.62/-1.67deg
Toe in l/r 0.5/0.5mm
Total Toe in 0.9mm

Only dríven it a little so far with the shocks dialed up to anything sporty like and it's more responsive to turn in the previously, probably due to the extra 0.4deg camber on the front, up from 1.24, and the bushes of course.

If the car is just used for \"Spirited\" driving you need to be looking at a minimum -2.5deg. camber on back and front.

I don't really think toe ins-outs are going to make a lot of difference when you are talking about 1mm...your 3.4 mm on the rear is probably just going to induce a bit of understeer because the tail doesn't want to slide and that will contribute to the tyre wear on the edges.


Just as an example my race car was just on -5deg neg front and rear with the toe set up straight,the white car has about -4 on the front and -3 on the back...and it's a road car...all sounds a bit extreme when compared to your -1.5 but when you have \"Sticky\" tyres thats the sort of set up you need.

Yep, I agree with Lou. I run a fairly mild setup on the MX5, pretty much -
Front: -1.5 camber, max caster, 0 toe
Rear: -1.5 camber, 2mm toe in.
This is for street tyres on a street car (with LSD). My old 5 on sticky rubber ran -3 to -3.5 camber, and I still wore the outsides of the tyres.

On the Charade which is FWD and on Azenis RT215 - its -3camber, toe out on the front, toe in on the rear.

Looks like I should be more agressive on the camber next time

Only downside of lots of neg camber is that you follow ruts in the road more and as the wheel isn't overly flat bagging it up in first would be easier too one would think?

you mean tram lining?

Yeh my NA did it really badly when I had a real big neg camber setup on it.

Craig what was the set up on the NA.....do you recall?

Remember it being around 2 degrees neg camber.

so currently I'm thinking
Front: Camber -2.5deg, Max caster & 0 toe
rear: camber -2.5 Toe ????

I also run a torsen LSD


Craig do you recall if you had any toe in the front or rear?


Lou do you have anything of the sort with your white car?

toe out 5mm at the front FTW!!!!!