Since getting into trackwork, coolant temps have always been on my mind. Having done the usual radiator etc upgrade I was still getting hot after 4-5 laps at Wakefield. (temp read from sensor in top radiator hose)
Asking around at the track and searching, people have always told me the biggest thing you can do for cooling is ducting, ducting and more ducting.
This makes sense since the biggest thing that erked me with the SE was the massive amount of area for air to bypass the radiator underneath and around the sides.
I wanted to keep the factory undertray so everything can be reversible and accessible still, and utilise as many factory bolt points as possible.
Picked up a sheet of scrap 1.2mm thick aluminum from a local reseller for $10.00 (1.2x1.6m offcut. Bargain!)
I must say though, 1.2mm aluminium is the thickest I would recommend if cutting by hand. I have in the shed a guillotine and sheet metal bender, but cutting by hand was difficult, but doable (Nibbler broke on the first cut
)Large amount of photos warning, as I find thats better than me yabbering on
The problem:
Large gap between the radiator and the undertray
Big gaps allowing air to bypass the side of the radiator:
Removed the undertray to assess the situation and mounting points. The black bar is the SE factory mounting bar for the factory intercooler.
Using sheets of foam core I had, I set about making a template. First task was the undertray infill panel from the front bumper to the undertray, but including a lip up to direct the air up into the radiator
Underpanel template installed. (Note the massive gap for air to bypass the radiator)
Side Panels:
Drivers side
Passenger Side:
Cutting the sheet metal by hand (yeah yeah stop laughing at the rough cutting, the edges will be cleaned up and won't be seen)
Making the bends to flow with the under panel, plus the extra lip up to the radiator. I cut this part to kind of wrap around the back of the plastic panel mounting humps, so when the plastic panel was mounted, it would wedge the metal panel holding it solid on the ends, while being held in the middle by the mounting bolt on the intercooler bar.
Cutting the side infill panels
(the extension on the left side of the cooler piping will be bent inwards to an anchor point, tying the side and under panel together.
Utilising an unused bolt hole on the front frame (this is on both sides)
More bending (I love using this!)
Passenger side cut, bent and fitted
The three sides laid out. The side panels are angled due to the undertray being angled inwards and to line up with the unused bolt holes.
The pieces starting to be fitted. Lots of fitting, removing, cutting, fitting removing, cutting, allowing plenty of clearance around the intercooler pipe for movement.
The AC Lines were a pain on the passenger side. This is the turn in for the side panel. Lots of adhesive foam is used to avoid metal on metal contact.
Almost home.
The bottom tray is a sandwich of the original underpanel, metal panel and the under-diffuser thing screwed into the bumper. When all screwed together the metal panel is really solid with three screws across the front bumper.The back part is mounted into the black intercooler bar and is wedged into the plastic undertray mounting points.
I didn't take a photo with everything mounted back together, as you can't see any of it
I was originally going to make side panels to go underneath the intercooler piping to completely block the side out, but I have read reports of brakes overheating on track due to lack of air flow, so I'll leave that small gap open for now and see how it goes.
Idled the car and checked for vibrations and rubbing. Gave it all a good shake and all seems good.
Went for a drive after letting the car get up to thermostat temp and the temp dropped far quicker than before.
Won't know the real results until the next track day, but I'm optimistic.
