There has been a small delay in getting the parts back from ceramic coating. I got a discounted rate waiting for a batch to go in so it’s all good the coating place was a day late but my courier doesn’t go back till the weekend so instead of getting it all today it will be Monday.
Last weekend I installed the Walbro 190HP pump, that’s high pressure not horsepower.
A factory pump would be fine for my goals but I wasn’t sure if it’s condition so to be safe I put the upgrade in.
Bit of a pain as I had to remove the roll bar but not a big deal, I took photos along the way but for some reason I deleted them.
I went the Walbro over other options like the DW200 ect because I have used Walbro in the past and never had an issue with them, there is some talk of other options and not being overly reliable.
The downside is Walbro do have the classic big pump whine but this one comes with a sleeve to make it a little quieter, not sure it works but to put in perspective my exhaust is very quiet and I can’t hear the pump with the engine running at idle and no top up. This is the Walbro in the factory hanger, as you can see it’s slightly longer and fatter than the original.
While I was mucking around back there I cleaned out a one way valve that’s under the plate on the parcel shelf, Revlimiter.net did a blog some time ago about fuel fumes and pressure in the tank from the valve being blocked. He removed the valve.
I believe the little valve is to allow the tank to breath but closes in a rollover to stop fuel leaking out.
He found cleaning out the valve made a big difference but it didn’t last long, about a year.
I pulled it out and it was indeed partially blocked, the valve is a simple one way ball valve but the ball was hardly moving and sounded gritty, I blasted it with brake clean and heaps of junk came out.
After cleaning the ball moved freely, I have never had the fumes or pressure problem but while I was there I thought I might as well give it a clean.
I didn’t removed the valve because I assume that it’s never been cleaned in the cars life so if it’s lasted 26 years so far then a good clean should be fine.
This is the valve in a photo taken from Revlimiter.net
Also while I was back there I did the fuel pump wiring upgrade that’s pretty well known.
Basically the bigger pumps draw more current and can stuff the fuel pump relay leaving you stranded but also the factory wiring struggles to supply the amperage so the pump output can fluctuate at different voltage making it harder to tune.
So in short I mounted a relay in the boot rather than under the plate like some kits do so it’s easily serviced. I don’t want to remove the roll bar to replace a relay.
I used the original pump power wire to trigger the relay in the boot so it no longer has a large amperage flowing through the stock relay which i retained. The wire was blue with a red trace.
I then have the power running direct from the battery in some 30 amp twin core cable, through a 30 amp fuse, the new relay and factory grommet to the factory fuel pump plug.
If looking under the pump inspection plate it looks standard.
In the boot there is a relay mounted near the earth strap near the battery but it’s the only thing that hints that there is a modification. All wires run with the factory loom.
I have also removed the factory power aerial and have put a small chrome blanking plug there, my aerial is stuffed and the car no longer has a radio in it. (Will have a Bluetooth receiver)
I haven’t dríven the car yet, tuned it looked at AFR’s or anything but the car does catch faster on start up than it ever has so possibly the old pump was a little tired.
I hope to get the flow force 640 injectors in over the next couple days and get the tune back to how it is now which honestly is better than the factory ecu.
The injectors flow card I have shows my injectors to flow 649, 650, 655 and 655cc so I will set the size at 652cc in megasquirt as it’s the average.
the injectors will go up in size the further back in the motor so for example cylinder 3 and 4 will have the 655 in them as a very very small counter measure to the increased heat in the back cylinders, makes sense in my head lol.
From my research it shouldn’t be hard to get the tune back to how it is with the injector upgrade, I have to change size, dead times and with MS3 voltage offset which I have all that info.
I’ll then see how close we get to the target AFR’s and adjust where needed if auto tune can’t get it.
Looking forward to seeing how the idle and light throttle is with the EV14 injectors as it’s meant to be a good improvement, I have NB red injectors at the minute and they are far better than the tan NA8 ones I originally had.
Once that’s sorted it’s time to start mounting the turbo gear which I’m really excited about.
Thanks to everyone who is reading my ramblings along on this journey.
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