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In general more negative camber in the front than the rear.

Whilst the amount of toe in will give you high speed stability it will impact turn in. You could run toe out front and toe in rear.

Try 3.5 neg front, 3.0 neg rear and zero toes. Maybe toe out front. Be aware toe will impact tire wear! Look at your tyre temps and adjust the alignment/pressures accordingly.

Who did the alignment in Brisbane?

Thanks Magpie

The a full day at the last sprints at LS has shown noticeable inner tyre wear due to the toe in, the front left also had a camber bolt, ill give accurate a try next week and drop the rear camber back a bit, best I can get out of the front is -2.00 camber at the sacrifice of bit of caster

in saying that the car felt balance and previous under steer was gone although the ado8r have stiff side walls and I have them running at 26psi cold

so in sumary,
get 0.5 deg less in the rear than the front if -2.0 is not attainable for spirited street driving.


is there any recommendations on where to get it done in Sydney? Since Stu is no longer about.

Going to get my new NA aligned as I suspect it's on pretty standard (read poor) alignment given the "comfort" tyres it's currently wearing so thought I 'd search and refresh my memory on specs and it appears that may have been a good idea.

Back when I had my '94 consensus was about 1/2 degree more negative camber in the rear than the front. In the time I've been away this seems to have flipped and now be 1/2 degree more negative in the front than the rear. is that correct?

Toe is now recommended to be neutral rather than about 1 - 2mm toe in and caster remains as much as possible.

All sound about right? Only looking for a spirited street alignment for stock suspension set up at this stage.

There used to be a couple of other wheel alignment threads on here that would allow you to track changes over time, but looks like they're gone - did find these though:
2016: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=72118
2006: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=17451
2006: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=17832

I've picked some basic alignment specs that'll suit at this stage. Goal right now is to ensure it is actually aligned and look for any potential issues. Once I know it's OK I can develop the alignment over time.

just had my first alignment after putting the MCA's in. was extremely wack before but current settings are

-2.5 camber front and back, zero toe at the front and 1mm toe at the back.

went for a spirited drive and went well apart from the little bit of scrubbing, but that's my fault I guess

Thought I'd add to this thread rather than create a new one as I have what I think is a simple question regarding caster. I know what it is and what effect it has etc but what I'm wondering is, how is it adjusted on NA/NBs? Looking at alignment specs recommended on this and the big forum as well as vendor sites I often see a specific amount recommended (usually around 4.5 - 5deg) or the simple "max positive you can get" but having recently pulled all of the suspension apart on my car, I don't see how caster actually adjusts on them. So am I missing something or is there no point in specifying caster when having an alignment done?

If you study the location of the lower control arm inner pivot points, they are not equi-distant forward & rearward of the hub/axle centre line. Actually the front inner pivot point is close to the hub centreline & the rear pivot point is well towards the rear.
Therefore, moving the front pivot inwards & the rear pivot outwards, moves the wheel hub forward to increase caster. But it's all a compromise, you can't have max caster & max camber at the same time.

apsilon wrote:I've picked some basic alignment specs that'll suit at this stage. Goal right now is to ensure it is actually aligned and look for any potential issues. Once I know it's OK I can develop the alignment over time.

So what specs did you end up with (I need to get my own done soon)?

Nothing revolutionary. I asked for:

Front:
4.5deg of caster
-2deg camber
0 toe

Rear:
Half a degree less than front (so if front reached the requested -2 then rear -1.5)
1.5mm of total toe in (0.75mm each side)

Wasn't able to get more than -1deg of camber in front for some reason. Everything else was spot on what I asked for. I'll look into it more in the new year, try a more reputable alignment place to make sure it wasn't the operator and/or calibration of the equipment as it looks to my eye to be a lot more than -1deg and if necessary order some extended lower ball joints in order to get more.

I couldn't get more than -1 deg on my NA while it was at stock height. I think that's normal.

apsilon wrote:Nothing revolutionary. I asked for:

Front:
4.5deg of caster
-2deg camber
0 toe

Rear:
Half a degree less than front (so if front reached the requested -2 then rear -1.5)
1.5mm of total toe in (0.75mm each side)

Wasn't able to get more than -1deg of camber in front for some reason. Everything else was spot on what I asked for. I'll look into it more in the new year, try a more reputable alignment place to make sure it wasn't the operator and/or calibration of the equipment as it looks to my eye to be a lot more than -1deg and if necessary order some extended lower ball joints in order to get more.

Thx

StuwieP wrote:I couldn't get more than -1 deg on my NA while it was at stock height. I think that's normal.

I got slightly more on the first alignment I did around mid year at stock height. It's now slightly lowered and could get less. Everything else is spot on and I'm not concerned about the car being out from an accident. I just think it's the alignment place I used.

You will probably need to pick up some extended lower ball joints. The lowest I can get now is -2*, but prior I could only get about -1.8* on my SE.

Already on the list. I was going to buy them before but held off as I knew camber should increase when lowering the car and it's not going to be a track only car so I don't need extreme. I'll order some and they can go in when I do the steering rack.